About Sustaining Voices
Sourcing Journal’s Sustaining Voices celebrates the efforts the apparel industry is making toward securing a more environmentally responsible future through creative innovations, scalable solutions and forward-thinking initiatives that are spinning intent into action.
Overview
Lenzing’s revolutionary Tencel x Refibra lyocell now contains 10 percent more post-industrial recycled cotton, but the company isn’t stopping there.
Deep Dive
Lenzing is moving closer to closing the loop. This year, the Austrian textile producer will use its Refibra technology to blend wood pulp with 10 percent more post-industrial cotton, bringing the amount of recycled content in its Tencel x Refibra lyocell to 30 percent. “Increasing the recycled content means we can upcycle more cotton scraps into new fiber for a second life,” said Tricia Carey, director of global business development for denim at Lenzing.
The road forward hasn’t always been an easy one. As a raw material, cotton scraps are “highly variable and sometimes highly contaminated,” Carey said. Another challenge? Getting the entire apparel supply chain, from mills to brands, to “understand, accept and market” textile-to-textile circularity. “While we only manufacture textile fiber, we proactively support each step of the supply chain,” she said.
In the long run, Lenzing plans to incorporate the Refibra technology across its entire fiber portfolio. Eventually, it wants to utilize post-consumer textile waste, which is an even more unpredictable input. “This will take large amounts of technical ingenuity, collaboration and investment from the entire apparel supply chain, in addition to designing final product with circularity in mind,” Carey said.
The demand for greener textiles, however, is immediately apparent. Carey counts Boyish, Country Road, DL1961, Eileen Fisher, Kings of Indigo, Levi's, Mara Hoffman, Marc O’Polo, Patagonia and Reformation among the “pioneering” brands that are using Tencel x Refibra fibers. With sustainability increasingly driving purchasing decisions, their ranks will only grow.
“Brands are pleased that we continue to increase the recycled content of cotton scraps for raw material,” she said. “We continue to assess waste from brands and many are eager for a post-consumer option.”
In what areas has the fashion industry made the biggest strides in sustainability in the last five years?
"The greatest strides have been in the apparel industry supply chain, with responsible companies collectively working towards solutions through global initiatives.
Within the denim community, the greatest strides have been in dyeing and finishing, especially in the area of laundry with a view to minimizing chemical and water use as well as minimizing worker exposure to chemicals."